CDI 4 install pictoral

[roughseas]

So this friend left his RD at my place for a ground up restoration, last month has been a PITA trying to source parts which look like they have had some kind of quality control! Anyway, the Chinoy CDI kit arrived a few days back, just in time after I got the motor in the frame. I had no clue what the kit would contain as my friend ordered it before we even decided that I would be doing his bike up. Was a nice surprise to see all the relevant parts there and some.



First step was to clean up the paint from the coil plate mounting surfaces



Now what's missing?



Ah a grommet! the treasure chest is got to have something





The holes didn't line up, so had to file down slightly more than a mm and bevel the edges for the CS screws to sit properly without getting too close to the magneto





I used CS allen head screws instead of the ones Chinoy sent, as I had loads left over from the gearbox side.



All lined up



I also sanded down a portion of the window where the wires were getting pinched with the crankcase.



All done this side



Next up a mounting plate for the RR and CDI, I had my cars old aluminum number plate waiting to be butchered









Added a few water resistant connectors to the CDI and the HT coils



Cleaned the harness





Added a small extension to the tail light out to run the meter lights

Photo-bucket acting up!

[roughseas]

I wanted to leave the left side clear for all the cables so mounted both the HT coils on the right





The option plugs all get a cozy rubber boot



and the CPU power gets a Hi temp sheath



Now I am hoping all this fits under the side cover which is still in the paint shop

[dafc]

ace job!

[ajithk]

Sweet work. Looks like a nice café racer in the making. We need finished pics too! :-)

[crazydiablo]

Thats probably the cleanest install I have seen. Can this be a sticky please?

[chinoy]

Just some inputs.
1. You have the plate set to max advance. Loosen those screws. And rotate the plate full anti clock wise in the slots.
This is the recommended setting to start timing with.

2. The normal way to mount the HT coils and get the tank on. Is to mount them on the first bolt of the HT coil bracket.
With the coils flipped. i.e. one lead facing forward and the other facing backwards.
This is just in case you figure the HT coils are not fitting under the tank. We get a lot of calls on this issue. And Ive found my way is the only way they all fit under the tank. But if you've squeezed it in ignore this part.

3. Grounding is critical. So ensure metal to metal contact off everything i.e. if that plate you added is rubber mounted you could have issues.
Poor grounding is a big issue on re-painted bikes. So keep an eye out for that.

When you time the bike shoot for at least 24 Deg. Try higher values. i.e. 28 and use what the bike runs best with.

4. Im not too keen on the water proof connectors. We implemented those identical connectors in version 2.0 or was it 3.0 of the CDI kits.
We removed them really fast. And went back to the bullet connectors. The problem is the size of the pins and the surface area and the voltages involved.
So just keep that in mind. Im not saying it wont work. But if you run into issue. Revert back to the bullet connectors.

5. Tip for the Ign s/w. Is keep your original shell. Just swap out the base from the new s/w into your old s/w.

[tanvirgill]

Nice elaborative pictorial guide. Great help for customers, esp outstation ones.

@Chinoy-Tip number 5-I shall try.

[roshiba777]

Nice Job..

[roughseas]

Thanks for the comments guys. Pointers taken Chinoy , hope it all fits in! I've made sure about a good earth at all points, including the plate I fabricated. Wont be timing it anytime soon as got to source a US spec front axle and speedo drive and bleed the brakes before I can roll it down from my 3rd floor balcony .

[roughseas]

Synced the carbs today

[yt]O0eniXkDCJI[/yt]

[tanvirgill]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O0eniXkDCJI

[roughseas]

Thanks!!

[roughseas]

The good news first...



The CDI & VR and all the connectors fit under the side cover without a problem.

Now the bad...





Like Chinoy said, the HT coils need to mounted on the forward holes, one on each side or they rub against the tank. I have mounted them so that the HT wires are on the outside, that way I don't risk a short with the tank body.

Next up was a little plate for when I start timing, I wanted this as close to the magneto as possible to remove any parallax errors, for now I am using a makeshift height gauge, will make permanent markings once I get my dial gauge.





Another days job and should be firing the engine up.

Here is my help



and the project as it stands...

[tanvirgill]

Rims look good, so does the foot rests!

[rash]

Hey Roughseas,

What part of Pune are you from? We have a bunch of RDD old timers in Pune who can help you with anything RD related.
BTW, have to say, cleanest install I've seen. You seem to be quite the perfectionist!

Welcome to RDD.

[simaord]

good job rough seas, a step to step pics of CDI installation
are you having SS spokes on your wheels , Just have a question are wide liped A rims ok for our Indian roads ?

[chinoy]

LOL I can just imagine you firing that up on the 3rd floor balcony.

@Gill if it aint broke dont touch it.

Nice clean looking bike. Good job on the install.

[arvindraju]

clean work !

[roughseas]

Thanks for all the comments guys! Finally got it down to the parking today after a lot of cursing as the stairs had just been mopped by an over enthusiastic maid Forgot to tighten the oil drain plug before filling in the oil and more 'maa' 'behen' galis followed :p

I'll try and click a video tomorrow while I do the timing, got to get some more 2T as I forgot to save some for the little bottle I was going to hook up to the carbs. That and the seat and I am done....balcony looks empty now

[roughseas]

@ Simaord.. the spokes are normal nickel for the front wheel and chrome for the rear, I don't know from which bike as the spokes I bought for the RD all went waste as wasn't planning to install the US spec front end. The rims should hold up fine, I don't see a problem. Having said that the H-section aluminum rims are not as hardy as the normal profile, whatever its called.

RDD junkie.. I am at NIBM