First point.
You get what you pay for.
Dont buy the cheapest tank you can find and expect it to work flawlessly.
For me the basic entry level tanks are the Original Kanger Techs. That come in the Black Box.
This is your basic babby entry level tank. Anything else is a cheap knock off.
Now even with these authentic Kanger Techs. You will have issues. But they can be fixed.
These Tanks cost 18$-20$ We sell them for the lowest price in India. 1500/- for the Pro Tank 2 and 1800/- for the Pro Tank 3. When there is stocks.
Anything cheaper than these and 100% you will have more problems.
These cheap kits are to give you a fighting chance off trying to stop. They actually work. Unlike the cartomizers which looks like Cigs. Which dont work in my view.
One way of dealing with this problem which most noobs will have is to sell them Top coil. Tanks.
This would be cheap 1-2$ plastic tanks like the Kanger Tech T2. Here the coil is at the top of the tank. So there are zero leaks.
I started with a T2 and used it for 2 days. Cause on the 2nd day I tasted what a bottom coil tastes like.
Ok now enough on the talk about cheap china tanks and bats. Next how do deal with them.
The only way is to educate your self on how things work. And fix the problems as they crop up.
The other option is to buy a Rebuildable but that is even more complex to build and get right.
You could buy a Dripper. Drippers are pretty idiot proof. But you still will need to learn to build your own coils and wicks.
You could buy an Original Kayfun. For a few grand. But your still going to have to deal with Gurgling or dry hits till you learn how to build it right.
What if you just cant be bothered to figure all this out ?.
Then its back to Cartomizers for you.
Rather than me trying to explain how to fix leaking watch this video
This is for an original Pro-Tank. Original Pro-Tank coil. Not even some cheap china clone coil.
As you can see this is a common problem. And various people have posted videos on how to fix it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JJQ_8-vmneE
After you watch the video. My inputs.
If you have dry hits it means there is too much heat and not enough juice flow.
If you have gurgling and leaks it means too much juice is flowing into the juice well and then out the pin.
On Juice in Mouth, Dry Hits, Shorts and other issues.
Re: On Juice in Mouth, Dry Hits, Shorts and other issues.
Now the quick and dirty way to prevent leaking.
See the wick material.
The density of the wick and the thickness of the juice have to be balanced.
So that just the right amount of juice enters the Juice well. Too much and it comes up into your mouth or out via the hole at the bottom.
So if you have gurgling or leaking. All you need to do is shake the chimney off.
Do not touch the existing wick or coil. Just add one more wick over the existing wick.
This will increase the density of the wick and limit the entry of juice into the well.
If your having dry hits. Do the opposite. Take off one of the strands of wick.
THis is how you fix it easy and simple.
The next level is to replace your flavor wick. Every time you change your flavor.
You lift the chimney. You pull off the wicks siting on top of the coil. And do a dry burn. By pulsing the coil. Till it burns off any deposits on the coil. You then Put fresh flavor wick on top of the coil and put the chimney back on.
And the last step is when you progress to rebuilding your coil. That process has been covered in the video above.
See the wick material.
The density of the wick and the thickness of the juice have to be balanced.
So that just the right amount of juice enters the Juice well. Too much and it comes up into your mouth or out via the hole at the bottom.
So if you have gurgling or leaking. All you need to do is shake the chimney off.
Do not touch the existing wick or coil. Just add one more wick over the existing wick.
This will increase the density of the wick and limit the entry of juice into the well.
If your having dry hits. Do the opposite. Take off one of the strands of wick.
THis is how you fix it easy and simple.
The next level is to replace your flavor wick. Every time you change your flavor.
You lift the chimney. You pull off the wicks siting on top of the coil. And do a dry burn. By pulsing the coil. Till it burns off any deposits on the coil. You then Put fresh flavor wick on top of the coil and put the chimney back on.
And the last step is when you progress to rebuilding your coil. That process has been covered in the video above.
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Re: On Juice in Mouth, Dry Hits, Shorts and other issues.
Kanger have got a but load of complaints about this problem and have come up with a new coil design. Which has no wick. Just a cylinder with two holes.
I have not tested these and think they may not work. Because the size of the hole is too small.
I prefer the older design like the one in the pic above. Because this way its easy to control the wick density.
With the new design if you want to increase flow. You will need to drill out the holes. Not as easy as adding or removing a strand of wick.
PS: I was right the new cylinder coils dont work with my juice. They should be ok with thinner juices. I found one of the new coils and tested it. I think the holes on the side of the cylinder will need to be drilled out to get it to work with thicker juice.
I have not tested these and think they may not work. Because the size of the hole is too small.
I prefer the older design like the one in the pic above. Because this way its easy to control the wick density.
With the new design if you want to increase flow. You will need to drill out the holes. Not as easy as adding or removing a strand of wick.
PS: I was right the new cylinder coils dont work with my juice. They should be ok with thinner juices. I found one of the new coils and tested it. I think the holes on the side of the cylinder will need to be drilled out to get it to work with thicker juice.
Re: On Juice in Mouth, Dry Hits, Shorts and other issues.
Ok so the above posts where dealing with Juice flow. i.e. what to do if your not getting enough juice or too much juice into your well.
Before we move onto the topic for the day which is air flow. Let me remind you that there are other factors that control juice flow. One of which is draw. i.e. if you do not have a way for air to flow up into the tank or if the passage for the air is blocked then you are going to lan up sucking juice into the well. No matter how dense you pack that wick. Lack of air flow will result in juice being sucked into the well and then your mouth.
So before we go playing with the wick we need to make sure air flow is working.
Before we move onto the topic for the day which is air flow. Let me remind you that there are other factors that control juice flow. One of which is draw. i.e. if you do not have a way for air to flow up into the tank or if the passage for the air is blocked then you are going to lan up sucking juice into the well. No matter how dense you pack that wick. Lack of air flow will result in juice being sucked into the well and then your mouth.
So before we go playing with the wick we need to make sure air flow is working.
Re: On Juice in Mouth, Dry Hits, Shorts and other issues.
So air flow is referred to as Draw.
As in how hard do you need to suck to get things going.
Some people like a tight draw. i.e. when they suck its hard.
Some people like an airy draw i.e. when they suck effort required and resistance is less.
Keep this in mind. THough. The tighter the draw. The denser your wick needs to be because the suction force pulling the juice in will be more. The easier the draw the less dense your wick needs to be because there is little or no suction pulling the juice into the well.
It helps if you visualize the complete system in your head.
Now sorting out that draw. The type and kind of draw is normally designed into the tank. Unless you have an adjustable air flow base.
What I found is that the Kanger Tech Tanks do tend to have a very tight draw.
And it helps to open up the holes to help it breathe better. Flip the tank look at the base of the tank. There will be two holes. On the base. These need to be enlarged a little bit. Either with a needle or a small drill bit.
The best way to trouble shoot draw problems is
a. Test sucking on the tank. With no juice in it.
b. Test sucking on the tank with juice on it.
c. Finally fit the tank to the bat and test.
See where your problem crops up. And address it there.
As in how hard do you need to suck to get things going.
Some people like a tight draw. i.e. when they suck its hard.
Some people like an airy draw i.e. when they suck effort required and resistance is less.
Keep this in mind. THough. The tighter the draw. The denser your wick needs to be because the suction force pulling the juice in will be more. The easier the draw the less dense your wick needs to be because there is little or no suction pulling the juice into the well.
It helps if you visualize the complete system in your head.
Now sorting out that draw. The type and kind of draw is normally designed into the tank. Unless you have an adjustable air flow base.
What I found is that the Kanger Tech Tanks do tend to have a very tight draw.
And it helps to open up the holes to help it breathe better. Flip the tank look at the base of the tank. There will be two holes. On the base. These need to be enlarged a little bit. Either with a needle or a small drill bit.
The best way to trouble shoot draw problems is
a. Test sucking on the tank. With no juice in it.
b. Test sucking on the tank with juice on it.
c. Finally fit the tank to the bat and test.
See where your problem crops up. And address it there.
Re: On Juice in Mouth, Dry Hits, Shorts and other issues.
WARNING.
All the mech mod customers and kanger tech customers are blowing up bats.
The mistake they are making is that they are over tightening the tank to the bat.
Look at this picture. Its a typical coil.
At the top is the 510 Pin or positive post.
After that you have a rubber / silicone insulator.
After that you have the body of the coil.
The mistake people are making is that they are over tightening the tank to the coil.
When the 510 pin of the bat. Meets the 510 pin of the tank. And you put pressure on it. The only thing preventing a short is that thin little insulator.
You do it 2-3 times and it gets cut. What a cut insulator looks like is pictured on the right.
Once the insulator fails. Every time you fire the button your shorting the bat. And very soon it explodes.
Please be carefull.
One sure fire way of knowing your insulator is cut or damaged is if the 510 pin sinks. Into the coil.
This is happening on Genuine Authentic Kangertech tanks. So the cheaper ones are even more delicate.
More pictures this is a brand new Authentic Kanger Coil. I paid a bomb for and out of the box it has this problem. Now you understand why no warranty is possible on any of this hardware.
All the mech mod customers and kanger tech customers are blowing up bats.
The mistake they are making is that they are over tightening the tank to the bat.
Look at this picture. Its a typical coil.
At the top is the 510 Pin or positive post.
After that you have a rubber / silicone insulator.
After that you have the body of the coil.
The mistake people are making is that they are over tightening the tank to the coil.
When the 510 pin of the bat. Meets the 510 pin of the tank. And you put pressure on it. The only thing preventing a short is that thin little insulator.
You do it 2-3 times and it gets cut. What a cut insulator looks like is pictured on the right.
Once the insulator fails. Every time you fire the button your shorting the bat. And very soon it explodes.
Please be carefull.
One sure fire way of knowing your insulator is cut or damaged is if the 510 pin sinks. Into the coil.
This is happening on Genuine Authentic Kangertech tanks. So the cheaper ones are even more delicate.
More pictures this is a brand new Authentic Kanger Coil. I paid a bomb for and out of the box it has this problem. Now you understand why no warranty is possible on any of this hardware.
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Re: On Juice in Mouth, Dry Hits, Shorts and other issues.
Q: Ok screw all this just tell me a tank which I can buy and it will just work.
Ans: Well the sad news is there is no such tank. Every tank I have purchased has had some bug or the other.
I guess part of the reason is that I have been only buying cheap clones. And not 200$ Original Tanks.
The search for the perfect tank continues to go on. Which is why every single month you see a new tank on the market.
My Favourite tanks. Are all tanks that never worked right when I purchased them. And my tanks I no longer use are all the ones that worked the best out of the box.
A quick review of tanks that worked fine right out of the box.
1. iClear 16
Pros: Top Coil. 16 wicks. Superb taste. Just works right out of the box.
Cons: Plastic Tank. So limits what juices you can smoke in it. One mistake with the wrong juice and its bye bye tank.
Wick gunks up really fast. And you cant dry burn it or clean it. Only makes sense if your going to stick to vaping one low gunking flavor. Or you need a stack of spare coils.
Close to impossible to rebuild
2. iClear 30S.
This is the tank that I got with my itaste VTR.
Pros: 30 Wicks. Dual Coil. Superb taste.
Cons: Same as the iClear 16S. Due to there being so many wicks. It gunks up. You cant dry burn it. You cant rebuild the coil. So works fine for some time and then the only option is to change the coil. The coils are costlly. They are the costliest coils in the market. I still use this tank every day. And I have 10 back up coils which I change every time I change the flavor.
This is a plastic tank also. So put the wrong juice into it and its bye bye tank.
Both the above tanks do not take kindly to changing flavors. It works well for the first flavor. After that its just a mish mash of tastes. Since you cant do a dry burn. If you ever make the mistake of changing the flavor your next flavor is going to be a mixture of every flavor you ever put into the tank.
3. Pro Tank 2 mini.
After watching all the reviews. Yes I sit up till 3AM every day for the past 6 months watching videos and reading reviews. The Mini Protank 2 is one of the most respected and saught after tanks in the market. I got the Orignal Kanger tech Pro Tank 2. First 2 days it worked like a charm. Then things went south. The draw got tight. Juices leaked. Flavors cant be mixed all the regular problems.
This is what I did to fix it and make it my number 1 tank for Flavor Testing.
a. I replaced the base with the right air flow base. Kanger offer two adjustable air flow bases. One which they introduced in the Aero Tank. And one which they introduced with the Mega.
The base they introduced on the Aero was a flop. It had serious design flaws. Which is why you see them on sale for 1-2$. They fixed this with the release of the Mega. We imported these bases at 12$ a pop. + Shipping Not a single one sold. So I just used it on my Pro Tank. The next thing I did was to rebuild the coil. And replace the crappy soft cheap rubber insulators Kanger uses with something much harder. This allows me to rebuild my coil without worrying about the crappy kanger insulator cracking. Prathap gave me his two broken Vivi Novas. I got the thick insulator off that one I put one onto his Pro Tank 2 and the other I put on my mini.
Now that I have a decent coil with thicker 30 gauge wire. I can do stuff like Dry Burns and replace the flavor wick when I want.
It cost me a bomb to setup up this tank. but I think the end result is even better than say if I where to drop 35$ on a Mega. The Mega would be still be a dual coil. So I got the best of both worlds a Mega bottom and a Pro Tank 2 single coil. Will never part with this setup cause it took me so much time effort and money to get it right.
4. Ithika / Hercules with Ceramic Bowl
To be Contd ....
5. Kayfun Lite
6. Kayfun
7. Mini Protank 3
8. Protank 3
9. iAtty
10. Agag T2
11. Kanger Tech T2
12. Kanger Tech T3D
13. Cross Fire
14.
15.
Ans: Well the sad news is there is no such tank. Every tank I have purchased has had some bug or the other.
I guess part of the reason is that I have been only buying cheap clones. And not 200$ Original Tanks.
The search for the perfect tank continues to go on. Which is why every single month you see a new tank on the market.
My Favourite tanks. Are all tanks that never worked right when I purchased them. And my tanks I no longer use are all the ones that worked the best out of the box.
A quick review of tanks that worked fine right out of the box.
1. iClear 16
Pros: Top Coil. 16 wicks. Superb taste. Just works right out of the box.
Cons: Plastic Tank. So limits what juices you can smoke in it. One mistake with the wrong juice and its bye bye tank.
Wick gunks up really fast. And you cant dry burn it or clean it. Only makes sense if your going to stick to vaping one low gunking flavor. Or you need a stack of spare coils.
Close to impossible to rebuild
2. iClear 30S.
This is the tank that I got with my itaste VTR.
Pros: 30 Wicks. Dual Coil. Superb taste.
Cons: Same as the iClear 16S. Due to there being so many wicks. It gunks up. You cant dry burn it. You cant rebuild the coil. So works fine for some time and then the only option is to change the coil. The coils are costlly. They are the costliest coils in the market. I still use this tank every day. And I have 10 back up coils which I change every time I change the flavor.
This is a plastic tank also. So put the wrong juice into it and its bye bye tank.
Both the above tanks do not take kindly to changing flavors. It works well for the first flavor. After that its just a mish mash of tastes. Since you cant do a dry burn. If you ever make the mistake of changing the flavor your next flavor is going to be a mixture of every flavor you ever put into the tank.
3. Pro Tank 2 mini.
After watching all the reviews. Yes I sit up till 3AM every day for the past 6 months watching videos and reading reviews. The Mini Protank 2 is one of the most respected and saught after tanks in the market. I got the Orignal Kanger tech Pro Tank 2. First 2 days it worked like a charm. Then things went south. The draw got tight. Juices leaked. Flavors cant be mixed all the regular problems.
This is what I did to fix it and make it my number 1 tank for Flavor Testing.
a. I replaced the base with the right air flow base. Kanger offer two adjustable air flow bases. One which they introduced in the Aero Tank. And one which they introduced with the Mega.
The base they introduced on the Aero was a flop. It had serious design flaws. Which is why you see them on sale for 1-2$. They fixed this with the release of the Mega. We imported these bases at 12$ a pop. + Shipping Not a single one sold. So I just used it on my Pro Tank. The next thing I did was to rebuild the coil. And replace the crappy soft cheap rubber insulators Kanger uses with something much harder. This allows me to rebuild my coil without worrying about the crappy kanger insulator cracking. Prathap gave me his two broken Vivi Novas. I got the thick insulator off that one I put one onto his Pro Tank 2 and the other I put on my mini.
Now that I have a decent coil with thicker 30 gauge wire. I can do stuff like Dry Burns and replace the flavor wick when I want.
It cost me a bomb to setup up this tank. but I think the end result is even better than say if I where to drop 35$ on a Mega. The Mega would be still be a dual coil. So I got the best of both worlds a Mega bottom and a Pro Tank 2 single coil. Will never part with this setup cause it took me so much time effort and money to get it right.
4. Ithika / Hercules with Ceramic Bowl
To be Contd ....
5. Kayfun Lite
6. Kayfun
7. Mini Protank 3
8. Protank 3
9. iAtty
10. Agag T2
11. Kanger Tech T2
12. Kanger Tech T3D
13. Cross Fire
14.
15.