First RX in KolKata With RDD CDI.

[ashim]

I could be wrong, so please correct but this is info from Shuvo!
Firstly Id like to thank Shuvo for all his help, Oshesh Dhanobad bhai...
The products: 1. 90/100 kit.
2. Rdd CDI.
3. Chinoy Filter Filter.

First I fitted the 90/100 kit and rode the bike for couple of weeks. The 90/100 is a good product. Sufficient Juice and the reduced load on the crank can be felt while accelerating. I am happy with this product.
I received The CDI, Chinoy Filter and jets today at 12 Am, nicely packed by the way! Got to work and within no time was up and running. All I needed was Shuvo on the other end of the phone with "Put this bullet into that female" and " scrape that frame for good earthing". Im sorry but you have to be really dumb or really lazy if you cant do this yourself. It started raining so no test ride then so went for lunch. Did the timing after this, set it at halfway, that is on the 90/100 kit. The bike has changed drastically, It feels like the cc's have increased . Good spread of powers in the first 3 gears, have got a pulsar taco and 8k Feels easy.....I've got a Rev happy motor . Have to get the jetting done, but so far Im bloody impressed.Good product Ron . Will take a proper ride tomorrow in daylight and update.

[mautbiker]

Post up a picture of the plug, Jet it properly, im sure the bike will move even better. Congrats on a successful install.

[arvindraju]

congrats on the install ! enjoy the free revving motor

[ashim]

I suppose the colour is ok ???

[varvij_viju]

Looks good. Perfect even !

Cheers

[mautbiker]

jetting looks ok. You can up the timing a little if you want else just run it as it is.

[SidTheBiker]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the angle of the pic makes the plug gap look way too large. That doesn't look right somehow. What plug gap are you running?

[mautbiker]

.5-.6 mm is recommended plug gap.

[mautbiker]

.5-.6 mm is recommended plug gap.

[ashim]

Sorry about the lousy Picture, Yes Sid the gap was a bit big, have adjusted to .5mm.
Here are some better photos:

[roshiba777]

plug colour looks good

[SidTheBiker]

Now the gap looks correct. How come you're using W7BC, which is a hotter plug? Isn't WR5BC the recommended plug for the RDD CDI? It's easily available at most parts dealers.

[ashim]

Right again Sid, 5BC is not easily available in Kolkata but have ordered one and will replace asap.
Does running a 5BC mean a cooler running engine ??

[SidTheBiker]

Ashim, rather than answer your question myself, I'm gonna refer you to the gurus. Here's a bit about plug heat range from an article by Gordon Jennings on spark plug readings:

If all engines, and riders, were identical, the spark plug manufacturers' jobs would be easy, as a single plug would be suitable for all applications. Instead, engines vary enormously, as do specific operating conditions, and so the plugs themselves have to be given equally varied thermal characteristics. This is done by varying the length of the path taken by heat as it travels from the very hot center electrode and insulator nose to the relatively cool areas around the body's threads and the plug washer. Plugs with a long insulator nose, which leads heat high into the plug body before it turns back toward the cooler cylinder head, are "hot." Short-nosed plugs, with a shorter heat path, are "cold." And these terms are very misleading, as in all cases the object is to match the thermal characteristics of plug and engine so the electrode temperature will stay between 700 F. and 1000 F. We must emphasize that it is the engine that puts heat into the plug, and not the reverse. A "hot" plug does not make an engine run hotter; neither does a "cold" plug make if run cooler.


If you'd like to read the full article, which is pretty informative, it's in my DropBox. Just go to http://db.tt/OOOHpYB

[ashim]

Thank you Deb, you were right VERY informative indeed. In-fact Joining RDD was a good thing for me !
The reason I asked that question was that There was no difference in heat generated than with the static CDI.(No cooler running engine). I have had long conversations with Shuvo on this issue and we came to a conclusion that jetting was the cause.
Today I advanced the timing actually i turned the coil plate full clock-wise just to see the difference, after an aggressive riding session found that the bike was cool. I just informed Shuvo(My new best friend) and he advised me to back off or id hole my piston. But the bike is running cooler so Iv decided to run this timing for a couple of days until I get a timing gun.
Any further insight would be appreciated.

Ash...

[mautbiker]

If ur at the redline all the time the RDD Cdi makes sure your engine runs cooler, putting the engine under load in the midrange around 3-4k is wat is risky if you are running excessive spark advance. eg climbing a flyover at 50 in top gear with a pillion at wot.

[SidTheBiker]

Ashim, if you read the article properly, you would not want to advance the timing all the way. Back off a bit as Shuvo said. Then focus on jetting.

[ashim]

Ok guys will back off and then wait for the gun. So what I understand now is, Your timing should be set according to your riding style/requirements/habits. If high RPMs result in cooler running engine then moderate RPM would run hotter at the same timing....?

Am I even close???

Ash...